The Stillness of Kalaallit Nunaat

My soft footsteps, attuned to the rhythmic heartbeat of the Earth, gently push through the dense ground cover that maternally blankets the immense landscape of the tundra. With each step, I feel the dewy breath of the land rise up through the crisp morning mist, tenderly warming the souls of my feet.  It is here, in this seemingly endless, quiet space where I finally find myself at home with my inner consciousness, able to hear the voice of my truth, and feel the interconnection between all that exists.

Angaangaq and Sarah on Qaqqarsuaq Mountain, near Kangerlussuaq

Angaangaq Angakkorsuaq, who is guiding my trek to the Big Ice in Kangerlussuaq, west Greenland, is a shaman, traditional healer, and storyteller whose family descend from the far North of Kalaallit Nunaat (the Inuit name for the island). His dedication to the environment and indigenous issues has taken him to more than 70 countries around the world to speak, conduct seminars, ceremonies and share traditional Inuit teachings. He tells us that “Only by melting the ice in the heart of man, will man have the chance to change and use his knowledge wisely.”

Angaangaaq, says that there are three distinct paths across this vast wilderness; one of the Caribou, one of the Muskox, and one of the Human. It is up to each one of us to choose which of these paths we will take upon our journey. The animals tread so gently, cracking open seeds beneath their hooves without crushing them so that they can take root, and grow into vegetation which will eventually feed an Arctic hare that might in turn feed an Arctic fox or an eagle. The circle of life is so evident on the narrow trails of the caribou and muskoxen, but what about where the human steps?

It is only here, in the company of Greenland’s otherworldly nature, embraced by the stillness, where I have felt safe and strong enough to open my eyes to the overwhelming reality of the impact that the human footprint has had upon our Mother Earth.

 Russell Glacier near Kangerlussuaq in west Greenland

The Arctic is warming faster than any other region on the planet. Greenland’s temperatures are rising at a rate more than twice the global average.

As well as affecting the rise in sea-level, the regulation of global temperatures, Northern Hemisphere weather, and the habitats of Arctic and marine life, the changes taking place in this unique ecosystem also bring an uncertain future for Inuit culture, tradition and livelihood.

When we take our first steps onto the Big Ice; the ice sheet that reaches over 80 percent of Greenland, we pause, realizing how small we stand as we bask in her sheer magnificence. I humbly listen to the rapidly thawing ice, as stories and ancient knowledge spill out of the melting glaciers with a surprisingly vigorous new energy.  Everything that she has to voice about the destructive and truly ungrateful behaviour of humanity comes with forgiveness and an unconditional love, but also with a very direct message. If we want to continue living on this planet, we must move forward with our eyes and hearts wide open, and our intentions pure.

As Angaangaq states, “Mother Earth can live without us – but we cannot live without Mother Earth.”

Elisabeth Petrussen Rosing (above), is from Kangaamiut, Kalaallit Nunaat. She plays the Qilaut, a traditional Kalaallit wind drum that connects her with her roots and ancestors. The word Qilaut means an instrument from the Great Sky.

The growing interest in the Arctic and her resources is a huge threat to her well-being and she very well knows it. The relative conservation of Greenland today is largely the accidental result of a lack of intensive human interference, thanks to the extreme climate, expensive travel, and long distance from densely populated cities. With temperatures rising, though, the Arctic’s future is no longer secured.

As Greenland becomes green, human activity in the North is sure to increase with improved access and a rising demand for the rich resources that have been frozen in time. Risks from pollution, such as oil spills, adverse affects of mining, and damage from invasive alien species brought over by ships will increase as a web of new roads and large-scale development projects weave their way across the land.

Humanity has a rare opportunity to prove that we can change our destructive course and realign ourselves with all that lives.

By following the example of the animals, we can choose to honour Mother Earth, starting with Kalaallit Nunaat. We can cherish and nurture her raw, natural beauty instead of depleting it for profit, and by allowing her ecosystems and species to evolve naturally, and Indigenous cultures to continue practicing traditional, sustainable ways of life. The challenges facing Arctic biodiversity and global preservation are interconnected, requiring a holistic approach and worldwide cooperation. Together, we can change our fate and create a new Human path that we can be proud to gently walk upon.

Dear friends, Angaangaq and Elisabeth

To learn more about Angaangaq Angakkorsuaq and his work, please visit Ice Wisdom https://icewisdom.com/

2 thoughts on “The Stillness of Kalaallit Nunaat

  1. Hello Sarah — I too have felt the beauty of the land in Greenland — been there 4 times both with Angaangaq and on my own — 2 summer and 2 winter. Out of those experiences I have made The Ceremony Cards — theceremonycards.com — and am now bringing them back to Greenland in the spirit of “give back – pay forward – plant seeds”
    I feel you and I are sister travelers. Please contact me.

    Liked by 1 person

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